Tsion Cafe, a Culinary Legacy: In Conversation with Owner Beejhy Barhany
by Chiara Knoblich Llerena
October is National Women's Small Business Month and at Kota, we are thrilled to celebrate this by highlighting the amazing women entrepreneurs in our community. Last week we had the privilege of interviewing Beejhy Barhany, the owner of Tsion Cafe right here in West Harlem.
The restaurant at 763 St Nicholas Avenue has played an important role in West Harlem since the 1930s. Jimmys Chicken Shack, as it used to be called, was a place where “influential people walked through [the] doors to make a change in the community”. Notably, it was within these walls that Malcolm X and Redd Foxx met while working as waiters, and where the legendary Charlie Parker found inspiration by listening to other musicians.
Today it houses Tsion Cafe, an Ethiopian-Mediterranean restaurant owned by Beejhy Barhany. It continues to be a vibrant spot for the celebration of art in its various forms. From open mic nights and art exhibitions to film screenings, and of course, the culinary art it offers. At Tsion Cafe, the community gathers to eat good food and share memories. The restaurant receives guests from all over the world, but local community members are the base.
Photo by Ohad Kab
Beejhy was born in Tigray, in the north of Ethiopia, later emigrated to Israel, and ended up in New York City. Along the way, there were many stops around the world, but when she first came to New York in 1996, she immediately fell in love with its vibration. “I wanted to be part of it!”, and now she is. Almost nine years ago she opened the Tsion Cafe in West Harlem. Here the whole neighborhood comes together to celebrate the delicious food of Ethiopia and the Mediterranean.
Opening a restaurant was “not a surprise”. Beejhy grew up in a kitchen, peeling garlic and helping wherever she could from a young age. As she recounts, in Ethiopia having guests is considered a blessing, nourishing them is an honor. “People come in and we feed them, it’s a given”. The same applies to Tsion Cafe, where healthy and delicious food is at the forefront.
“Sharing food and eating together brings out [the] humanity and kindness of the people”.
The most rewarding part of owning this restaurant is to be the ambassador for the rich and flavorful Ethiopian-Mediterranean cuisine. From the start, she focused on “home-style nourishing good food” and made sure to work with gluten-free, vegan, and organic ingredients.
Photo by Ohad Kab
Of course, owning a business also brings challenges. The biggest one is finding committed employees. “You have to hold on tight to the good ones”. This has been difficult especially after COVID-19 because a lot of people have left the industry. During the pandemic, Tsion Cafe managed to stay open by delivering food to hospitals and nursing homes. Beejhy highlights the importance of having “flexibility to pivot” and adapting to new ways to sustain yourself.
One piece of advice Beejhy has to other women entrepreneurs is to “surround yourself with the right people”. If a few people understand and support your mission, they can help you to move forward and achieve it. For her, these people are her family and colleagues.
The food at Tsion Cafe could soon be coming to your own kitchen. Beejhy is in the end stages of writing her own cookbook full of dishes, stories, and traditions inspired by the Ethiopian Jewish diaspora. It is set to come out by the end of 2024.
